Tag Archives: manitoba fly trap

Project Updates

Posted on by
Reply

 

Time is a great teacher. There are many times when I write my column
then put it away to be read at a later date. During the later review,
I realize what needs to be removed, what needs further explanation
and even typographic errors. This same situation occurs in the
projects I perform as I often change them after construction has
finished. A “finished” project reveals its flaws to me much more
readily after I can step back and look at a full scale model.

I built a Manitoba fly trap about two years ago. The fly trap is a
pyramid-shape contraption that allows flies access through the bottom
then directs them to seek sunshine by climbing or flying up the
interior of the pyramid until the end of their trip occurs inside a
one gallon pickle jar.
I tried to save money on the construction of the fly trap. I used
plastic to cover the frame and attempted to paint the plastic in
order to block sunlight from the portions where none was needed. The
plastic ripped and I eventually removed it. I replaced the portion of
the body that needed to block sunshine with ¼ inch plywood. I then
used fabric cloth (screen) to over the part of the frame that need to
allow sunlight. All of this additional weight meant the four main legs needed extra
support as they began to crack from the weight. I wanted to correct
his problem and let my readers know before construction revealed
flaws in the design.

It was not careful review that made me modify my second project-the
tornado shelter. I crawled inside it this winter and imagined how I
would feel in the event we had to use the shelter. I decided it
needed more structure out of pure fear.
The tornado shelter is actually based on plans for an outdoor tornado
shelter however I built it in the angle beneath our steps. In between
the double-thick and hurricane-strapped studs I decided to add more two
by four boards. In between each bank of studs, I stacked more two by
fours one on top of the other from the bottom to the top. Each
stacked board is glued to the one beneath it and also fastened to the
stud on either end. I remembered this is the way they used to build
grain elevators. I’ve seen old grain elevators topple over and still
not implode so I thought this might be a good additional design
feature.
After the glue dried, I then covered the whole mess with plywood
that was glued and fastened to that mass of wood. This will then be
covered with car siding to make it look nice. It will either be a
wooden cocoon or wooden coffin, however the more glue I smell and
screw heads I see; the more I trust the shelter’s integrity.

I’ve always said I typically build my projects three times before I
am satisfied. Maybe time and experience have brought that number down
to two. Anyway, I share my projects with you so I like to share my
repairs and improvements as well.

here are the original stories

http://rreflection.areavoices.com/2010/07/01/project-fly-trap/

http://rreflection.areavoices.com/2011/08/12/project-dorothy-room/

update to Project Fly Trap

Posted on by
1

I posted a story of how to build a Manitoba fly trap in July of 2010. I had to make some changes and I wanted to bring those to your attention.

I ended up changing out the flimsy plastic to a combination of 1/4 plywood and screen fabric. It is mcu more sturdy and works very well. However, it is heavier and I had to bolster the legs because they started to crack under the increased weight.

(original story is at http://rreflection.areavoices.com/2010/07/01/project-fly-trap/)

I ended up changing out the flimsy plastic to a combination of 1/4 plywood and screen fabric.

Fly trap as it looks today.

 

Project Fly Trap

Posted on by
2

 

I ended up changing out the flimsy plastic to a combination of 1/4 plywood and screen fabric.

Fly trap as it looks today.

 “I ended up changing out the flimsy plastic to a combination of 1/4 plywood and screen fabric.-4-6-12 GN”

I will always trade one single large effort for several smaller ones, this is the inspiration for most of my projects. I want to create something that will work for years to come with little or no maintenance and comes with only initial cost. It is with these philosophies that I bring to you project fly trap.

First off, this trap will not replace my other efforts at fly control. I am still using fly predators to kill off flies while they are in the pupae stage plus I use some chemical sprayed on a back rubber that the cattle can use at their convenience. I also believe it will take more than one fly trap to really make a difference; anyway I needed project.

Think of this fly trap as a four-sided pyramid that rises to a platform which has a four inch hole in it. On top of the platform is an upside-down funnel that leads into a canning jar which is also upside down and mounted to the platform using the canning jar lid. The premise of this trap is that flies will always fly to the light and upwards, they also can find a small opening if it is at the end of an angled wall but cannot find that same opening when it sits in the middle of an open space.

I began the trap with four uprights made from treated 2×2 wood cut to 84 inches long with one 45 degree end. These four uprights are mounted with metal brackets to a nine inch square plywood platform. I brace the uprights with 2×2 wood cut to 57 inches with a 45 degree cut at each end. These horizontal braces should actually have a compound cut to fit perfectly on the uprights but one cut makes the fit pretty close and metal brackets will hold it firmly. The plywood platform will need a hole cut to match whatever canning lid and jar you decided to use. You will also have to make a compromise between the size of the lid and the size of the funnel which will sit upside-down on top of the canning lid and inside the jar. I found that the Rubbermaid square container and a small yellow funnel worked together perfectly, although I had to carefully cut a hole in the lid of container lid to match the funnel opening.

Frame complete, you will need to cover the frame from the braces (about 24 inches from the ground) all the way up to the plywood platform. The bottom 18 inches must be dark and the rest of the covering must be see-though or screen. Now here’s the secret of this project, a big black ball. You must hang a large , black ball in the middle of pyramid to attract flies and it must hang so about half of it hangs below the bottom of the dark fabric covering the bottom of the pyramid. I couldn’t find a black ball so I painted two milk jugs black and used them instead.

The is how the trap works. Flies believe the black ball is the belly of an animal, find it does not have any blood to harvest and then fly off with in the pyramid. They will always fly upward past the black fabric of the pyramid towards the clear plastic or screen place at a higher level on the pyramid. When they find they are still trapped they will crawl upwards through the hole in the plywood platform then continue upwards through the container lid/canning jar lid and follow the upside-down funnel through it’s small opening and into the light of a clear plastic container or canning jar. They will then be unable to find that opening to leave the jar and eventually perish.

I’m not sure the size of the trap is that important as I have seen commercial models ($300) much smaller than the one I made. Start with the dimension and instructions in my column but use your common sense and remember the basic premise of the trap as you design your own model. You can also search several agricultural extension websites for more information using the search term, “Manitoba fly trap.” I made my trap for about $40 but if your heads swims at the idea you can always purchase a commercial model. I always feel home made is best, however I’m sure the flies really don’t care.

 

http://rreflection.areavoices.com/2012/04/05/update-to-project-fly-trap/